So folks, this was day three…but the Internet on this boat is hit or
miss, so here’s day three-point-five. Just when we thought the waves would
never come…this morning we woke to swell rolling in. Jen got up and started
surfing small ground swell. She said to me: “There must be waves somewhere.” Yup, We just need to find them.”
So we did.
We fired up My Ann and headed to a spot where the surf might be rolling in. The first place we showed up, let’s call it “Manchete’s” Don’t correct me. It’s spelled that way for a reason!
Holy crap, coach. The surf for the last two days has been legit! We surfed
Manchete’s, a cobblestone point with head high to double overhead peeling rights with just two other guys out. Crazy. We must be living right, huh?
Then we woke this a.m. (day four) and headed to an outer island. Twenty plus miles off BVI. It was a risk but holy shit did it pay off. The water was electric blue–this wasn’t postcard blue. This was some other world shit. Me and Laura paddled out to what looked like shoulder high peelers. When we got out there the waves were breaking top to bottom double overhead. It was a big open-ocean break so we both spent the entire session paddling. I never stopped paddling for two hours straight.
Laura snagged a nice right but then ended up getting stuck inside. In fact, her leash got caught on a coral head and then the whitewater stuffed her leg into a hole in the coral. But both of us ended up stroking into a couple big ones. Two waves in 2 hours actually was pretty good. This was open ocean: big currents and waves that looked about half as big as they were.
After we surfed, we loaded up and headed back to Tortola to check another spot–2.5 hours through two big storms and one board even was blown off the deck, a huge pain in the ass to get back. We got there in time for an afternoon session. The surf was again double overhead with offshores and two other surfers out.
Look for this BVI feature in the Spring, 2011 issue of SUP magazine.