Giving Thanks at Mavericks and Peahi

Giving Thanks at Mavericks and Peahi

In a story for our Fall issue on the evolution of big wave standup, Kai Lenny told us that he had put his time in at his home break–the big wave theater that is Jaws–on his prone board and was ready to take SUP surfing at the famed wave to the next level.

Well winter has started with a bang on the islands as a Thanksgiving swell lit up Maui’s crown jewel last week and photographer Erik Aeder was on hand to capture the action. “It’s always a treat to ride Jaws, the place is by far my favorite wave,” said Lenny, who received an invite as an alternate to this year’s Eddie Aikau Invitational at Waimea Bay. “It’s the only wave I’ve ever been to where one wave can make your session, or entire season! Maui has turned it on so far this year, it has been glassy and great surf.”

Lenny rode a 10’6″, 27-inch wide Naish production gun shaped by the late Harold Ige. “It’s a very special design,” he said. “It’s a magic shape.”

At the same time, a large swell woke up Mavericks a half a world away off the California Coast where Jeff Clark threw himself over an impressive ledge to catch this sequence by photographer Brian Overfelt. Clark was on his new 10’6″ production gun he shaped through Riviera Paddlesurf and it was his first time riding it. “I was so stoked on it,” he said. “I put it all to the test on that one wave.”

While the swell looked clean for Mavericks, Clark said the lineup was definitely tricky. “Thanksgiving always seems to throw us a bone,” he said. “The swell had a lot of west in it. The waves looked clean but it was jumping around. The energy was moving around and there were these big scallops in the face. You had to be in the right vein to get over the ledge.” Definitely not a surf session for the feint of heart.